Denmark
A smaller Scandinavian country between the Baltic Sea and the North Sea, south of Norway and (mostly) east of Sweden – both countries that had united histories with Denmark’s at various points before the three became established as the separate states they are now. (Relations remain close, though, and their languages are to a good degree mutually intelligible.)Denmark was, and partly still is, a seafaring empire playing its own part in colonialism. While their colony in India, Tranquebar, is no longer in Danish hands, the Faroe Islands and Greenland to a degree still are, though both have a large degree of autonomy these days. Yet neither have achieved the full independence that Iceland has, which was also formerly a possession of the Danish crown.
Today, Denmark has a largely peaceful reputation. And according to a recent poll, the Danes are the happiest people on the planet (they even have a special word for the typically Danish combination of happiness, contentedness and cosiness: “hygge”). So how can contemporary Denmark be relevant for dark tourism?
Well for starters its location has always been of great strategic importance, especially during the Cold War period but also earlier and still today. Going back a little further in history, Denmark was (for similar strategic reasons) occupied by Nazi Germany during WWII. This was an especially dark chapter in the country’s history and it is this that has left the largest number of dark attractions in Denmark.
Going back further, into prehistory even, but also covered here because of its uniqueness in the category of dead on display, is the bog body known as Tollund Man, now a museum exhibit.
Here’s a list of all the separate chapters for Denmark on this website (so far):
In addition there are yet more Cold-War-related sites, such as the Langelandsfort, a coastal fortification and bunker complex with artillery and anti-aircraft guns that was constructed in the early part of the Cold War to guard the southern tip of Langeland island in the Baltic Sea against a possible Soviet attack. Remember that Denmark was and remains an important member of NATO. After the USSR's demise the fort was decommissioned in 1993 and is now a museum, which also features some Cold-War-era fighter planes and a submarine (opening times: late March or early April to end of October from 10 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m., admission 140 DKK). Location: at Vognsbjergvej 4b, Bagenkop, Langeland.
Google Maps locator: [54.754,10.716]
Yet another Cold-War-era bunker complex and fortifications can be found at Stevnsfort south of Copenhagen. This one used to guard the access to Øresund, the strait between Denmark and Sweden. This was of course of major strategic importance in the whole Baltic region. The facility was closed down only in 2000 and is now a Cold War museum, or "Koldkrigsmuseum" in Danish. Outdoors, artillery, SAMs (anti-aircraft missiles) of the types Hawk and Nike Hercules, tanks and other hardware can be seen (admission 80 DKK, open April to October 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.). But the real draw is the underground bunker complex. This can, however, be visited on a guided tour, which lasts about an hour and a half and covers nearly 2 miles (3 km) of tunnels, bunkers and underground command centres (fee: 180 DKK); places are limited so advance booking is recommended (oesm.dk/stevnsfort-cold-war-museum/). Location: near Stevns Klint nature reserve some 35 miles (50 km) south of Copenhagen, address: Korsnæbsvej 60, 4673 Rødvig.
Google maps locator:[55.2644,12.4105]
All along the west coast of the mainland part of Denmark (called Jutland), as well as around the northern tip at the Skagerrak, there are vestiges of the fortifications and gun positions built by the German Nazis during the occupation time in WWII. These formed part of the extended Atlantic Wall. Many are these days no more than graffitied ruins slowly sinking into the beaches’ sand, yet others are rather well preserved and are now museums and tourist attractions. The most important ones, as far as I can see, are at Hanstholm [57.1206, 8.61698], Hirtshals [57.5849, 9.9421], Skagen [57.7395, 10.6376] and Frederikshavn [57.4085, 10.5162].
Moreover, there’s a Sea War Museum at Tyborøn (which also has some bunkers) in north-western Jutland [56.7065, 8.2154]. And south of that at Thorsminde is a Strandingsmuseet – a kind of shipwreck museum [56.3731, 8.1187].
At some point I will have to go on a road trip to Denmark to take in all those sites. But except for my short trip to Copenhagen in August 2023, I’ve not felt so much drawn towards the country in my adult life. This is probably in part so because – other than the countries I have actually lived in – Denmark is the one state I’ve been to most often … but only during numerous sailing holidays with my family when I was between 7 and 15 years old. But I have meanwhile found out that the country’s relevance to dark tourism should not be ignored forever.
Travelling to all those sights, especially those on the North Sea coast, would best be done by (hire) car. Public transport is only really good enough for/in Copenhagen and its surroundings. Getting to the country is possible by road and trains from both Germany and Sweden; international flights mostly use Copenhagen’s excellent airport.
Since much of coastal Denmark is more for a Nordic sort of beach holiday, there are plenty of accommodation options in the places relevant to the sites noted above. The language barrier is low, thanks to most Danes speaking good English (and German). For some remarks about food & drink see under Copenhagen.
images taken by my late father, Ulrich Hohenhaus