Polemi concentration camp
- darkometer rating: 5 -
A small memorial site at the location of one of the former concentration camps set up by the British colonial military in Cyprus in the 1950s to incarcerate captured EOKA freedom fighters. There isn’t all that much to see at this rather neglected site, but its historical significance makes an excursion here worth it all the same.
>Combinations with other dark destinations
More background info: for the wider context see the history section in the general Cyprus chapter and also cf. Kokkinotrimithia for more on how these camps were run and such details.
Polemi was one of the last such camps set up in Cyprus, in August 1958, and it was in operation for only 102 days. It was also one of the smallest such camps (significantly smaller than Kokkinotrimithia). But it was notorious for the cruelty the prisoners were subjected to here, including torture.
Like the other such camps Polemi was closed in February 1959 when the liberation struggle ended and the road was paved towards an independent Cyprus. The memorial was opened in 2004. By now it has a rather neglected feel to it and its future is somewhat uncertain.
What there is to see: not so much. It’s a small area space of just 200 feet (60m) by 80 feet (25m). Above the gate, which looks very similar to the one at Kokkinotromithia, is a sign spelling out “Polemi concentration camp” in Greek and English. Next to the gate is an information plaque, also bilingual, explaining very briefly the bare basics of the camp.
Within the compound, which is partially surrounded by a double barbed-wire fence (possibly a reconstruction) stands a watchtower (definitely a reconstruction) that is some 25 feet (8m) tall. You can climb to the top on a ladder on the outside (taking good care, as there’s nothing to hold on to other than the rungs!) for a bird’s-eye view of the camp.
To one side there is an old military truck as well as a jeep, both badly battered and more or less stripped bare. Why they are here is left unexplained.
There is only one (presumably original) building, a simple Nissen-hut-like corrugated-iron barrack. Here it’s of the usual size, not like the elongated ones at Kokkinotrimithia and also without windows (unlike there). A flagpole next to the hut flies the Greek national flag, as you would expect at an EOKA-related site.
Inside the barrack are a few exhibits. There are panels with small portrait photos, presumably of inmates of this camp, a couple of documents in Greek (without translation) and a display cabinet containing some personal objects of one of the inmates. On top of the case lies a rather stained document listing the names of the inmates.
In addition there’s a painting and, more significantly, a crude diorama model of the camp. Both show that the camp used to be larger than the current memorial’s area space and consisted mostly of tents for the inmates. (This actually throws into question whether this Nissen hut was an original part of Polemi camp.)
And that is it (other than the toilet facilities half-hidden behind a large bush, towards the back of the site).
All in all, this place can of course not compete with the much larger and much more commodified equivalent at Kokkinotrimithia, but, unlike that site, this one is at least always open to the public. Yet it’s small and there isn’t much to see – and in large part what there is seems to be reconstructions rather than authentic elements of the camp. You learn precious little about the camp and its history at the site itself – for that you’d have to go to the Museum of the National Struggle in Nicosia, which in part (though also not in much depth) covers the British concentration camps including Polemi. But when in the area it is definitely worth the short stop it takes to see the site.
Location: in a rural location ca. 12 miles (19 km) north of the tourism hub that is Paphos (Pafos) on the south-west coast of Cyprus, ca. 50 miles (80 km) west of Limassol and about a hundred miles (160 km) south-west of the capital Nicosia.
Google Maps locator: [34.8792, 32.4906]
Access and costs: a bit off the beaten track, but easy enough to reach, if only by car; free.
Details: To get to the site you need to have your own vehicle (or a hire car), as there is no public transport. From Paphos on the coast – or from the end of the A6 leading here from Limassol – take the B7 through road north for 12 miles (19 km), then opposite a petrol station turn right into the E703 towards Polemi. Shortly after you’ll pass a large winery. Right next to this is an electric pylon with a small substation, and the entrance to the Polemi concentration camp memorial is directly adjacent to that. You can park right outside the camp’s gate.
This gate is now permanently open so you can in theory visit at any time (but only during daylight hours makes sense); admission is free.
Time required: not long, perhaps 10-20 minutes will do.
Combinations with other dark destinations: By no means near geographically but thematically related closely is the other partially preserved British concentration camp from the 1950s: Kokkinotrimithia, which is also much larger, but for the general public has very restricted access to the camp’s interior. This is best reached from Nicosia, which in turn is reached from Paphos by the A6 and A1 motorways. The 90 mile (145 km) drive takes about two hours.
In Nicosia, the Museum of the National Struggle has more information about the British concentration camps, including Polemi. Another related site in Nicosia is the Imprisoned Graves.
Combinations with non-dark destinations: Right next door to the memorial site is a large winery where you can go for tastings and also purchase bottles of their wine. The whole region between Paphos and the Troodos Mountains foothills is wine country, although there is also a Yorkshire-family-run microbrewery of real ales and craft beers. And it’s en route to Polemi right by the B7 (at [34.8468, 32.4745]). They also offer beer-tasting and dinner packages including transfer from Paphos (from 60€ pp), but are closed out of season.
Paphos (also spelled Pafos) itself is the main tourism hub in western Cyprus, offering everything from beaches to prime archaeological sites,
All photos courtesy (and copyright) of Alexander Larin.
